Wednesday, March 10th, 2010

Read about it here in the DailyCamera…or just read it below.

KATHMANDU, Nepal — The smell of burning trash fills the air.

The evening sun is penetrating through the thick haze hanging over the city, creating a golden light.

Motorcycles, Tuk Tuks and an army of beat-up taxis maneuver ever so carefully through the chaotic labyrinth of roads. The sounds of high-pitched horns blasting from every vehicle create somewhat of an obnoxious symphony. Cows, water buffalo, dogs and even monkeys trot through the streets without a care.

I feel like we could crash at any second, but there seems to be order in this chaos. Our taxi driver has a huge smile on his face. I look around the streets and everyone else seems to be smiling, too.

I’ve only been in Kathmandu five minutes, and all my senses have been on overdrive. I love this country.

This is my second trip to the land of the Himalayas. Ever since I visited here 10 years ago, I’ve told people that Nepal is the most exotic country I have ever experienced. I sometimes feel like I’m on another planet.

I’m not planning on staying in Kathmandu long. My mission here is to hike the Annapurna Circuit in the Himalayas. I did a small portion of this walk years ago, and it was one of the most magical experiences of my life. This time, I’m here to complete the entire 210K trek.

In typical Duzer fashion, I’m determined to get a bike involved in the adventure.

I convince my buddy Skip to rent bikes and ride two days to the start of the trek. He’s hesitant at first; he’s been here before and has seen the dangerous highway connecting Kathmandu and Pokhara. I know we’ll be fine — after all, we’re in a country where cows are kings of the roads and killing one brings about a mandatory two-year jail sentence.

I’d like to think that we are somewhat protected creatures, as well.

It’s chilly the morning we ride out of Kathmandu, and I quickly realize that I’m riding on the wrong side of the road, as everyone is coming straight at me. I dodge chickens, dogs and monkeys coming at me. But the worst part is breathing in all the exhaust. The air is part dust with a dash of diesel fumes and a load of burning trash — a nasty potpourri of pollution.

After an hour of slicing through traffic, we make it out of the valley. Now the fun begins.

The “highway” we’re on is the thoroughfare connecting the two main cities. It’s really more of a one-lane road, with about a foot of space to pass on either side. Imagine Flagstaff Road full of dump trucks, cars, motorcycles and a host of other motorized vehicles all zig-zagging around one another. I actually feel safer on a bike; I protect myself behind the big trucks and let them lead me down the mountain.

The scenery is breathtaking. We’re riding through jungle hills, and far off in the distance we can see the giant snow-capped Himalayas. That gives us motivation to pedal faster.

After two grueling days, we make it to our destination with incredibly sore behinds (forgot to pack biking shorts — oops). It’s time to hike in the highest mountains in the world.

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